The End of the Myth
Kokumi and Sensory Complexity in Wine
7/17/20252 min read
What Does Complexity Taste Like?
For decades, a scheme was repeated that tried to simplify the complex: the famous “tongue map” that assigned specific zones for each primary taste. Sweet at the tip, bitter at the back, sour on the sides... A concept that served as a didactic tool, but that science and sensory experience have long since disproven.
Today, we know that taste buds are distributed more evenly and that taste is not limited to a fixed cartography. In fact, our gustatory perception is built in a more synergistic way, influenced by texture, temperature, retronasal aromas, and even emotional or cultural context.
In this path of dismantling simplifications, two key concepts appear that expand the taste map: umami and kokumi.
Umami: The Fifth Taste Dimension
Discovered in the early 20th century by Kikunae Ikeda, umami was officially recognised as the fifth basic taste in the 1980s. It is associated with glutamate and other nucleotides present in foods like ripe tomatoes, aged cheeses, kombu seaweed, or Iberian ham. Its perception is not aggressive but enveloping, and it has the particular ability to enhance other flavours.
In wine —especially in aged sparkling wines and evolved reds— umami has been associated with savoury notes that stimulate salivation and lengthen the palate. But umami, as a primary taste, doesn’t explain everything. That’s where kokumi comes in.
Kokumi: Depth, Roundness and Persistence
The term kokumi comes from Japanese and refers to a taste sensation of “fullness”, “depth”, and “continuity”. It is not a flavour in itself, but a flavour enhancer: a dimension that amplifies intensity, extends persistence, and rounds the gustatory profile of foods and beverages.
The molecular agents of kokumi are peptides such as glutathione or cysteinylglycine, which activate calcium-sensing receptors (CaSR) on the taste buds. These compounds are found in ingredients like aged garlic, scallops, Parmigiano-Reggiano, or long-simmered broths. But they also appear —more subtly and progressively— in certain wines.
Kokumi in Wine: Beyond Sweetness, Beyond Body
The presence of kokumi in wine has yet to be deeply explored in formal research, but many wine professionals agree in identifying that sensation of a wine that is enveloping, harmonious, with silky texture and long persistence, without relying on sweetness or marked alcohol structure.
Wines aged on lees, with well-integrated malolactic fermentations or controlled micro-oxygenation, may develop compounds that favour kokumi perception. The same happens with certain reds from mature plots, where the grape skin has reached an ideal balance between polyphenols and rounded tannins.
Kokumi and Sensory Communication
Incorporating kokumi into the wine lexicon allows for a richer, more precise, and more emotional narrative. While sweetness, acidity, or bitterness can be measured in a lab, kokumi is perceived as an expanded experience: the kind of wine that lingers in the mouth, that seems layered, and offers a sensation of completeness.
From a marketing perspective, speaking about kokumi makes it possible to connect with a consumer who seeks texture, authenticity, and depth, without falling into the excesses of ostentatious luxury or the coldness of empty technicalities.
Scientific References and Support
Ueda, Y. et al. (1990). Flavor characteristics of glutathione and its peptides. Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry.
Ohsu, T. et al. (2010). Involvement of the calcium-sensing receptor in human taste perception. Journal of Biological Chemistry.
Umami Information Center. www.umamiinfo.com
Conclusion: Toward a Contemporary Sensory Cartography
Taste experience can no longer be explained through simplistic maps or reductive labels. Concepts like umami and kokumi invite us to think of taste as a sensory architecture shaped by chemistry, memory, culture, and intention.
In the world of wine, speaking of kokumi is to open the door to a new way of describing, crafting, and communicating. A way that —like the finest of wines— leaves a lasting impression without ever raising its voice.